The Unsung Heroes

As consumers we tend to take many things for granted; the availability of a product, for example, or the readiness of our order at a time most convenient to our lifestyle. This demanding and expecting side of our nature expands to and beyond every facet of our day to day lives, but I think no more does this expectation for greatness go without gratitude or appreciation to those responsible then at our very own grocer; more specifically, the butcher.

I would go so far as to say that the talents of a butcher are a result of artistry and erudition; the knowledge, accuracy, care and time that an individual must put into their lives to provide for us the most succulent cuts of meat, from peameal bacon to baby backs, ground chuck or the gold star, king of all cuts, the rib-eye steak, is worthy of our acknowledgement and many, many thanks. Butterflied, skinless, Frenched, trimmed, silver skin removed, bone out, you name it, the guys and girls on the other side of the counter and behind the scenes of what is often the mainstay of our meal, are, let's face it, doing the meticulous and sometimes nasty tasks that we either don't want to do or simply don't allow the time for.

And so today, inspired by my appreciation for the butcher, I struck up a craving for something fresh cut and local. Something delicious and exciting, wrapped in that brown wax paper that we like to show off at a barbecue or a party, which somehow says "Inside this package is the most flavourful epicurean bounty one could possibly hope for. Something of a surprise to get excited for. Something extra special."

My research for locations throughout the city brought me with great surprise to a place just down the street from my home. It is what I would call a "blink of an eye" market and goes by the name of Valeriote's. I say blink of an eye because if one wasn't readily looking for it or didn't have a friend who already knew of its existence, then they would most likely pass right by it, especially given that it's on the corner of two residential side streets. Regardless of its location, my investigation has listed good things about this place and so in I went, searching for tidings for my plate.

To be completely honest, I'm not sure that I was initially blown away by the establishment, the exterior being crowded by many high school students smoking in the parking lot and parading through the neighbouring convenience store was a bit of a turn off; I just know now to not to visit during lunch hour. As far as the interior standards are concerned, as I mentioned before it is small; it's also dimly lit and doesn't exactly scream butcher shop, but, with that being said I was immediately greeted by the owner who was quick to find something to suit my needs and answer any questions I had. The guys there know their cuts and it's obvious by their counter selections that they have talent and knowledge for what they do and evidently love, and so, first impressions aside, I can ultimately say that I was, and still am, impressed with the business.

So, with a few ideas in mind, I perused their shop for a short while, eyeing up what they have to offer before eventually making my way back to the display case where marbled cuts of new york begged to be bought up. This is where things can get tricky, or to better put it, challenging for an apartment dweller, since most meats benefit greatly from the hot iron bars of a backyard grill. However, I am always up for overcoming challenges and so I happily walked away with two incredibly thick, local (within 50 miles), beautifully trimmed lamb chops.

Excited and inspired, I rushed home with ideas racing through my head on how to prepare my butcher's choice. Rosemary or grainy mustard? Red skin potatoes or couscous? Bell pepper medley or asparagus? So many choices, all leading to one dramatic climax of mouth watering euphoria, the recipe to follow.

It is here that I wish to conclude by saying that with so many cooking methods to explore and flavours to mix, there should be no limitations to the kitchen experience. Whether you live in an apartment or condo, house or trailer, there is always a reason to visit the artisans of our townships, the craftsmen behind our daily fare. Get to know who they are, since they are the ones who control what ends up in your shopping carts. Don't be afraid to make conversation and shake hands (sanitizer recommended), they are the masters behind the meal and can recommend, grind, slice, cut, chop and trim ideas that you didn't know were there. Open up and play with the ingredients in your fridge, get creative and bring the next hit to your dinner party.

Happy eating everyone.

-Phil

Valeriote's Market

204 Yorkshire Street North

Guelph, ON

OK, so, with many options on the plate, my final decision was to keep the lamb speaking for itself. If I am going to go so far as to make a request for certain cut of meat, then I don't necessarily want to mask its flavour with overpowering herbs and spices. Instead, I kept it simple, seasoning with salt and pepper, pan searing and then gently roasting to medium-rare.

To amp up the flavour and accompany those tender chops, I whipped up a garlic mint aioli and served them alongside basmati rice and a julienne of sauteed carrots, zucchini and red onions. When it comes to sides we often forget about the multitude of flavours at our easy reach; you don't always need to rely on the potato. Couscous, bulgur wheat, rice, chick pea mash, there's plenty to experiment with; and since I couldn't have been happier with my meal, here's my recipe for the mint aioli:

2 large egg yolks, brought to room temperature

1 1/4 cup vegetable oil

2 cups loosely packed fresh mint, finely chopped

2 cloves garlic, minced

Juice of 1 lemon

Whisk the eggs for a minute to encourage coagulation, then very, very, slowly whisk in half of the oil, (if you whisk too quickly then there will be no emulsion and you will end up with nothing more then a runny bowl of deconstructed mayonnaise). Add in the garlic, mint and lemon, then continue to slowly whisk the remaining oil. Should be the consistency of mayonnaise and your arms should be sore and tired from the constant whisking. Season with salt and pepper and chill until ready to serve.